African Design

Context
The fashion industry is a demanding mistress, hard to satisfy and maintain even to some of the wealthier countries of the world. So it is no surprise that this industry is struggling in the developing Continent of Africa. Of course different countries have different economic situations, and have different priorities towards fashion. However the main problems seem to lie in the lack of skills to compete competitively in an international scene, and not in lack of interest.
Pepita D is a Cotonou (capital of Benin) based designer who is a young designer, and also president of the bi-annual African Couture Festival held in Niger. Pepita has had the opportunity to travel all over Africa and Europe researching the fashion industries in these places. Her travels have allowed her insight on some of the problems the fashion industry face in Africa.
“The main problem is the lack of skills as a result of no investment in training for the workforce needed to maintain a profitable fashion industry. She advocates apprenticeship as the main way of skills transferral, though this is a great challenge because of the severity of poverty in Africa. People would rather work to put food on the table instead of interning and enduring training without pay.”

Industry
The African continent is a huge and complex place. Fighting for attention along with the ongoing economic situation is politics, governments, corruption, poverty, famine, and wars to name a few. Against the list above the world of fashion seems unimportant, however one can never underestimate the wealth that lies in the arts and crafts and the long history of wisdom that is entangled within them. It is important to keep these qualities in the communities and cultures alive. Founder of the Festival of African Fashion and Arts (FAFA) Ann McCreath says
“The international community rarely focuses on the immense knowledge and creativity that exists in this part of the world. We have an extremely visionary group of artists who are joining forces to showcase the very best that African fashion has to offer. We’re also using fashion as a means to impact positively on communities, something that the global fashion industry is only beginning to explore in its quest for a more ethical and responsible way of developing”

Fashion is often approached in events that are inclusive of other important topics of the nation. For example ‘Fashion for Peace’ was developed after the troubles of the 2008 elections in Kenya, helping to portray a more positive image. The event is a glamorous collaboration of some of Africa’s top fashion designers.

‘Fashion for Peace’ was cconceptualised by Ann McCreath, also creator of Kenyan fashion label KikoRomeo. “The objective is to draw attention to the sophistication which exists in Kenya and on the African continent while building on hope and promoting peace.” Says McCreath.

Up & Coming Designers
I LOVE LEROY (by Sarah Webber) - South Africa

Sarah Webber won the young designer Award in 2008.

Many people on blog sites have commented on the lack of african in influence in her designs. I wasn't very impressed to be honest, I'll post some images as soon as I can figure it all out.

Other African Designers

• Marie Bishara - Egypt
• Sister Buck - South Africa
• Oswald Boateng - Ghana
• Claire Kane - Senegal
• Remi - Nigeria
• Marc Bouwer - South Africa
• Azzedine Alaia - Tunisia
• Vlisco Fabric House - Strong influence in West and Central Africa

For more info on some of these designers and images please vist http://www.blueprintmag.co.za/

TFC Futures for the Australian Fashion Industry

I must say, it was all a bit overwhelming after the discussions on the TFC futures in the Australian fashion industry. It all seemed so doom and gloom. The local fashion industry is not able to compete with overseas mass production companies. It’s obvious a new approach is needed if local companies want to sustain through the hard times that have yet to come in this economic climate. Australian manufactures and companies must not under estimate the smaller local businesses. In places like NZ, local manufactures seem to be coping much better then here. I believe this is because an emphasis (helped by government funding) has been made on the local talent.

SWOT analysis on Personal Design Practice
STRENGTHS
Versatile clothing, made simply, with high finishing
Cleaver design that is inclusive of divers sizes and ages
Targeting mature women, involved in design and ideas, financially stable
A more personal approach made in smaller quantities, keeping standards high

WEAKNESSES
Newly established
Lack of contacts - manufacturers, agents, etc.
Haven’t established strong reputation with industries or consumers.
Financial constraints

OPPORTUNITIES
Clients looking for new and exciting ideas in design
Clients looking for well made local designs
Opportunity to develop a strong communication with consumers
Opportunity to work in small quantise, keeping it local

THREATS
High local costs eg. rent, manufacturing, distribution
Dying local manufacturing companies
Economic crisis effecting consumers

New Fashion Centres

I think it’s interesting that although new technologies in communication have had little affect on what is acceptable in men’s fashion. Technologies in communication have had a rather large impact in what we consider to be fashion centres. New technologies have allowed us to be able to easily access new ideas in design all over the world. I don’t believe this new attention in fashion in other parts of the world will take away from the classics such as Paris, Milan, London, or NY. I think there’s more than enough lime light for other parts of the world to express there fashion ideas and diversity.

Fast Fashion & Sustainability

To be honest I always thought of sustainability in fashion as rather boring. This was a disappointing reality for me to understand, as I could see the importance in sustainability, but just couldn’t get inspired by the readings I came across. Everything seemed to be about the textiles, the processes of the textiles, the maintenance of the textiles, and most snozzalicious of all, the bloody science involved in these processes. I thoroughly enjoy working with textiles in my design process, and understand the importance of a basic knowledge of the science involved in textiles. However the textiles I use are only one small part of my design process.

With out realising it, what I was looking for was sustainable design processes. I’ve found it in the sustainable ideas in slow fashion. The ideas around this movement are based in connecting back with our surroundings, interacting with ideas, consumers and communities. These are all ideas I know are truly important, in my design process. Designs with substance strong concepts that have been explored and refined are what I aspire to, and find most interest in.
The fashion industry has developed a system of self importance and waste that is not sustainable. I believe that change for a more sustainable fashion industry that includes a better balance of design and not just styling and trends is inevitable.

Uniforms & Men’s Fashion

I was surprised to find that just so much of the clothing found in western male society, formal and informal, is so directly connected to the uniform. Many of these uniforms have found there origins in the Military. This for me is interesting, as there are several links of conservative ideas of masculinity and the military, which seem to still be prevalent today. What’s also interesting is that with new technologies the influence of other cultures hasn’t seemed to make much of an impact or difference in what is acceptable in western men’s fashion.

Gender & Identity

The metro sexual male seems like an extremely contemporary situation. The idea of men equalling or outdoing woman in their purchases of skin, hair, and hygiene products, sound like modern marketing at it’s best or worst depending on your perspective. To find the current situation of metro sexuality with men, and female androgyny is actually not so current, was not a huge surprise. However to find out just how long these androgynous practices date back was!
It seems that our gender and sexuality have always been things we’ve had trouble defining visually through what we wear in clear and controlled guide lines. What I find interesting is our never ending desire to want to!
Our gender plays a huge factor in how we see ourselves, even if for most part it is subconsciously. However both these issues are deeply personal and only the individual in question can address these issues. If a man wants to wear a dress, or a woman feels more comfortable wearing overalls, I don’t see why it should affect anyone else.

Subcultures & Individuality

Humans are interesting things. We have a deep primal need to want to feel as though we belong, however at the same time we want to be unique! We want to be seen as different, as special… but not too different! As our societies have been exposed to foreign cultures, ideas and thinking’s through new technologies, alternative thinking’s have become more common, more “main stream”. Thus the visual impact of subcultures is less shocking, as has been stated by several other class mates. Also a focus within many subcultures in today’s society seems to be strongly based upon the visual aspect, and not political or social content. I think this is a shame, as questioning our surroundings, systems, and authority is very important. Passivity, I believe is becoming a huge problem!

Luxury Fashion: Daslu

I find it interesting, that in cases of extreme poverty often cases of extreme luxury and wealth are also present.
I understand the need for luxury products in the fashion and other industries. In fact I believe it is the powerful emotion of desire that makes the luxury consumers unique. The “I want” factor can not be under estimated in any luxury commercial industry.
Marketing is often directed to making us feel like we in fact need there products, however luxury marketing is almost the exact opposite. The luxury consumer has the pure exclusivity of merely wanting its products. The idea of need is not relevant, one does not NEED to shop in a store that has helicopters hanging from the ceilings, one simply desires to (the idea is alluring I have to admit). It offers exclusivity, and more importantly a sense of superiority, which is important when there are overpoweringly obvious levels of poverty. Superiority offers a (false) sense of immunity. No one wants to believe that such harsh reality may be a personal reality.
Luxury products suggest a well made well thought out design, high quality materials and importantly laboured time and effort in construction. These are all things I think are important in the fashion industry, and definitely there is a place for luxury in the fashion. However in cases like Daslu I feel the whole self importance approach is more of a hindrance than anything else.

Blogging and Me

As it is week 9 and I am only now sitting down to post ALL my term’s 9 topical blogs, one can safely assume that blogging is not my “thang”! Now, I know not all things are for all people, and as this is my first “post” (man all the cool young lingo involved with this new technology, you crazy kids) you might be thinking
“Hey Penina, you haven’t even tried it yet, how can you be so against blogging?”
Well I’m glad you asked. It’s not so much that I’m against blogging or even bloggers. I’m just not personally interested in sitting down and typing up my personal views. I mean why am I typing them up?... I already know what I think. It would seem it is so that others, and in this case, others in my class can read my thoughts on said topic. This is of course if they can find the time, and write a reply, thus starting up a conversation. HOLD ON ONE DANG MINUTE! Why couldn’t we JUST HAVE A CONVERSATION THEN!!! I mean we’re in the same bloody class!
Talking about the topics we cover in class face to face is one of the high lights for me, as it’s an actual interaction between people thinking about their contemporary environment. This is not just mentally more stimulating for me, but also much easier. No thinking about spelling, punctuation and gramma …and yes I said gramma, what you thounken about that!... that’s not so much poor gramma as it is shitty spelling, but I think I made my point!
So in conclusion, as this blogging torture is part of my S&C5 marking criteria, I will apply with the clearly stated criteria. However I would like it to be noted that it has made for one unhappy camper!
PS This is probably my longest and most thought out post, so pleas ENJOY!
PPS I feel a great sense calm after indulgently rambling on… there might be hope for blogging and me yet.